Today's review roundup includes: Matsuri, Schiller's Liquor Bar, Tiny's Giant Sandwich Shop, Alta.
NYTimes Restaurants William Grimes gives Matsuri two stars (369 West 16th St., in Maritime Hotel; (212) 243-6400):
. . . Youthful and exuberant, and stylish as all get-out, it pulls off the neat trick of presenting both traditional and modernized Japanese food in a warehouse-size basement that feels as much like a club as it does a restaurant.
. . . Into this operatic setting steps Tadashi Ono, no stranger to the idea of cuisine as theater. Formerly the chef at La Caravelle, he created a serene temple of avant-garde Japanese cuisine at Sono, where he made not only the food but the plates and bowls as well. The mission at the high-energy Matsuri is different. Most of the menu is dedicated to perfectly traditional sushi and sashimi, with fairly standard hand rolls added on. Matsuri offers nearly 30 species of fish, with a couple of less commonly encountered selections, shad and pink snapper. On a Manhattan scale of sushi excellence, I would put Matsuri in the upper third for quality and freshness, with a special commendation for the sweet egg custard sushi.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Lotus root braised in soy sake; sea-eel tempura; sake black cod; deep-fried sea bass with ponzu sauce; lobster red miso soup; coconut-milk tofu with strawberry water; Japanese pumpkin pie.
NYTimes $25 and Under Eric Asimov reviews Schiller's Liquor Bar (131 Rivington Street (Norfolk Street; (212) 260-4555):
At Schiller's, Mr. McNally and his team of chefs from Balthazar and Pastis, Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson, have created an international hipster commissary out of the staples of pub, bistro, trattoria, tapas bar and diner. An appetizer of shrimp ($9), served still sizzling in an iron skillet with olive oil, lemon and garlic, is the stuff of a thousand Spanish restaurants, but it's rarely this good, each flavor so clear and pure that you feel compelled to spear every last sliver of garlic and bit of shrimp before mopping the pan with bread.
. . . The best dishes, though, are main courses, all familiar yet uncommonly well executed. A Friday night special of sliced leg of lamb ($15.50) was tender and flavorful, full of garlic and herbs, served in a sauce of pan juices and wine. Rotisserie chicken ($15) is that rare bird that actually tastes like chicken, while two juicy pork chops ($15) were so big they covered a mound of sautéed onions. Perfectly al dente rigatoni with crumbled sausage in a creamy tomato sauce ($11) is a model of unified, comforting flavors, while a hanger steak ($15) with crisp fries is pleasingly beefy.
BEST DISHES Garlic shrimp; spaghetti with pecorino and cracked pepper; lamb curry; roast leg of lamb; rotisserie chicken; pork chops; rigatoni with sausage; hanger steak; lemon meringue pie; chocolate cream pie.
Citysearch reviews Tiny's Giant Sandwich Shop (127 Rivington St.; (212) 982-1690):
Almost every sandwich here has a vegetarian counterpart, and often it's as good or better than carnivorous original. In fact, the Big Mack Daddy--a veggie burger topped with tofu bacon and all the fixins on a brioche bun--is probably the best veggie burger in the city. Meat eaters should grab a grilled chicken po' boy, all warm and cheesy, or the Spicy Rizzak--turkey, bacon, cheese and spicy mayo on a hefty hero, served hot or cold. Soups are homemade daily and rely heavily on seasonal inspiration.
Citysearch reviews Alta (formerly Twilight 101) (64 W 10th St., (212) 505-7777):
The menu consists of a sizeable number of small-plate offerings, all based in a Spanish flavor palette, but featuring some smart, creative combinations. A saffron-colored warm salad of cauliflower, clams and raisins is pleasingly varied in flavor and texture; tuna tartare scented with smoky chorizo is another clever idea. Peppers stuffed with creamy rice are excellent, and a wine-pomegranate reduction gives rare strips of sirloin a delicious, bloody tang. A soft sheep cheese with quince paste makes a perfect, subtle finish; likewise fried goat cheese with lavender honey.
