Today's review roundup includes: BLT Steak, Barbuto, The Spotted Pig, Spice Market, Crave, Megu.
NYTimes Restaurants Amanda Hesser gives two stars to BLT Steak (106 East 57th Street; 212-752-7470):
It takes chutzpah to launch a new entry in a category as storied as the New York steakhouse. And a strategy to redefine expectations; otherwise you end up like the colossally bland Michael Jordan's the Steak House NYC.
Diners need a reason to shift alliances, and BLT Steak succeeds in this. In addition to well-seared meats and a serious wine list, there is a soft touch in the cooking, a sensitivity to acute flavors and seasonal ingredients.
In rethinking the steakhouse, Mr. Tourondel is renovating his own image. Previously, he was chef at Cello, a restaurant on the Upper East Side where his skill with fish earned him three stars from William Grimes of The New York Times in 1999. Indeed, two of the best dishes on BLT Steak's menu are the seafood platter and Dover sole sautéed on the bone.
. . . Here Mr. Tourondel's focus is on dry-aged meats in primal cuts. Of these, the hanger is by far the most flavorful. It is a homely cut, served with a dark crust, and a gamy interior that is dense with an iodine tang.
But oddly, the beef was the most underwhelming part of the menu, not because of the way it was cooked but because the beef itself — which comes from DeBragga & Spitler, where it is dry-aged for 28 days — lacked the depth of flavor normally associated with aged beef. Luckily, the various accompanying sauces are excellent. The horseradish is amply hot and light; the three mustards include a beguiling red wine mustard that has a fruity and lasting heat; and the peppercorn is a beautifully executed classic sauce. The servers encourage you to try several at a time, which only serves to distract your palate. Avoid this.
RECOMMENDED DISHES White mushroom soup; clam chowder; hanger steak; rack of lamb; veal chop; sautéed Dover sole; potato gratin; onion rings; chocolate tart; orange raspberry sundae.
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