« December 2004 | Main | February 2005 »
Hamburger America is a 54-minute documentary about eight family-owned restaurants across the country that serve burgers, and the first documentary on the food subject. You can view a trailer on Hamburger America's website.
Today's review roundup includes: Sapa, Taci's Beyti, Onju.
NYTimes Restaurants Frank Bruni contemplates the correlation between the length of a restaurants menu and the focus of its kitchen in his one star review of Sapa (43 West 24th Street; 212-929-1800):
...I suppose all this is meant to fill you with a sense of limitless bounty, of infinite choice. But it just as easily triggers confusion about how much to order and in what combination. It should also provoke concern. To judge by my experiences in this city's newest and most assiduously trendy restaurants, the longer the menu, the less consistent the quality of the food. There are boundaries to most chefs' imaginations and most kitchens' flexibility.
Sapa offered plenty of dishes that I found enormously appealing and plenty that seemed to be throwaways, inoffensive but unmemorable. There was a hefty rib-eye among the entrees, but why? It contributed nothing new or interesting to the annals of oversize steaks (though I did appreciate the cylindrical tower of flavorful onion rings beside it), and it distracted attention from the terrific cod, roasted in parchment and paired with a lovely porcini sherry sauce.
There were spare ribs with a cocoa and peanut glaze among the dishes to be shared, but to what end? Spare ribs have sported similar flavors before and have boasted a moistness and generosity of flesh that Sapa's lacked. Delete them from the menu and a diner is statistically more likely to select the chilled salad of poached lobster, consecrated with avocado, a bit of caviar and a chive crème fraîche that was like an exalted tartar sauce.
It's an issue of editing, an issue I raise in Sapa's case because there's an excellent restaurant within the clutter. That's no surprise: the chef, Patricia Yeo, has done her time and earned her stripes. After years of apprenticeship under Bobby Flay, she ran her own shows at the Asian fusion restaurant AZ and at Pazo, which explored the Mediterranean. She's a genuine globalist, and the cuisine at Sapa, alternately advertised as French-Vietnamese and French-Southeast Asian, reflects that. It ultimately defies either label or any pigeonholing.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Mackerel salad; sweet potato and pumpkin soup; roasted cod; roasted duck breast; pistachio crème brûlée; pear tart.
NYTimes $25 and Under reviews Taci's Beyti, a Turkish kebab house (1955 Coney Island Ave., Brooklyn; 718-627-5750):
When you arrive, walk to the cold case at the back to shop for meze. Make note of what you want, and head back to your table to tell the waiter. Service is rapid-fire, and in no time an array of dishes arrive.
The case is filled with a dozen or so meze, including a handful of bean and vegetable dishes cooked slowly in olive oil. The stewing lends itself particularly well to leeks ($4), which take on a soft, buttery texture. Split artichoke hearts ($4.50) are a little fancier, lightened with a squeeze of lemon and served with chunks of potato and few peas and carrots for color.
My brother, who is not a swooner, did just that when he took a piece of warm sesame-crusted bread and scooped up a glistening pile of puréed eggplant ($4.50). The flavor was both smoky and bright, punched up with a hit of garlic. "Just like being in the Turkish countryside," he said.
...A nice spread of meze is more than enough, but go for the meat on the menu. The dozen kebabs represent a cross-section of styles. Straight-up lamb shish kebab with hot roasted Turkish pepper and tomatoes ($10.75) had wide appeal at the table, but we kept going back for more forkfuls of the iskender kebab ($10). It's a rich dish of ground, spiced gyro-style lamb sliced over a slightly spiced, buttery tomato sauce cooled with yogurt. Any kebab is perfect with what are some of the finest fresh-cut, double-fried French fries ($2 or $4) I've had in a good while.
BEST DISHES Leek or artichoke meze; eggplant purée; fried liver cubes; French fries; lamb casserole; kebabs; kunefe.
NYPress reviews Onju, wear vegetarians and meat-eaters can happily share a table together and both leave satisfied (108 E. 4th Street; 212-228-3880):
If you are of the mind that organic is just purist nonsense, you still might enjoy a dinner at Onju, a new Italian restaurant in the East Village that utilizes all organic ingredients while avoiding a "health" agenda (note the intervals at which staff members huff cigarettes outside and you'll see what I mean). At first glance, Onju is just another sexy East Village Italian boite (think Lavagna) with exposed brick walls, picture windows, a knobby wood bar and tight banquettes that draws the neighborhood's greasy-haired brand of beautiful people. With the exception of accoutrements like "tofu cream" served with chanterelle ravioli and two varieties of gnocchi, there is nothing ostensibly crunchy about the place. Though vegans and vegetarians can eat heartily here, there is enough meat, cheese and butter on the menu to compensate.
...Judging from our entrees, there is potential for the food here to soar. Right now, the merits of Onju are limited to a few standout dishes. The port wine and short rib risotto ($20) was the best risotto of my New York eating career. The unadorned heap of brown-tinted rice boasted a wonderfully low ratio of grains to shredded meat. The short ribs, marinated for 48 hours in Chianti, added to the winy resonance of the dish, which was perfectly balanced between the richness of beef and butter and the vaporous nature of the alcohol.
Not as delicious but a feast for the eyes was the seafood risotto ($20), heaped with attractive shrimp, scallops, baby squid and calamari. The risotto itself was basic, not overly rich—Onju displays wise restraint when it comes to fattening up risotto—wonderfully al dente, and redolent of a mysterious smoky flavor (Onju does not have a wood-burning oven). The Cornish hen special ($23) was also solid: a flavorful bird, almost entirely deboned, baked until crisp but juicy, served with competent but uneventful green beans and brussels sprouts.
If you visit a Hong Kong-style bistro, you'll most likely drink see mut lai cha, or pantyhose milk tea.
Saturday morning we made an early run to the Ferry Terminal Farmers Market, and after collecting our bounty stopped at Mijita for some breakfast. The highlight, surprisingly enough, was the most perfect lime-cucumber agua fresca. The lime didn't overwhelm the cucumber, nor was the drink overly sweet. Delicious!
A recipe for aqua fresca de pepino (cucumber)
NYC Vietcafe = Viet Bland. A reader's email confirms:
"... the food was gross. portions were super tiny. [we] ordered the vegetable plate which consisted of--shredded carrot and thin slices of shitake. that's it. can carrot and shitake comprise a whole entree? no way. and the dish didn't include the 5-spice tofu advertised on the menu. terribly disappointing. we were all craving pizza at the end of our meal."
SF Vinography and Manresa present the Story Wine Dinner on Thursday, February 24, 2005.
Flickr slideshow: A meal at the French Laundry.
Japanese kitchen toolkit - tools for the Japanese kitchen, and where to buy them if you're shopping in Tokyo.
NYC A rave review for the recently opened Happy Happy Happy dairy-free and gluten-free bakery. "They're new, they're fantastic, and they still only charge 85 cents for what's just about the best cupcake in the city. Even if I wasn't vegan, I'd still take a Happy Happy Happy cupcake over a Magnolia or Crumbs cupcake."
SF The Fancy Food Show starts this Sunday. Register online.
A kind reader has brought it to my attention that in a NYTimes story on the foie gras debate, it was Paula Wolfert who said, "I rather be a force-fed duck than a Tyson chicken."
It would then make sense that I misheard Dan Barber's "be" for "eat" and he in fact was simply referencing Wolfert's widely quoted—and quoteworthy—quote.
Thank you, internet!
Finger-clickin' good: The Sacramento Bee discovers food blogs.
SF Best Pizza in SF according to Jan Newbury, Food Editor for San Francisco Magazine.
Today's review roundup includes: Little Giant, Brown, Bottega del Vino, Bouillabaisse 126.
NYTimes Restaurants Frank Bruni enjoys the tunes at Little Giant, and gives it one star (85 Orchard Street; 212-226-5047):
... I waded into a bowl of brussels sprouts, roasted with a maple syrup glaze, and as I marveled at how much I liked them, I marveled as well at the smoothness and logic of an aural segue from Squeeze to Wilco. I chewed and hummed, hummed and chewed. Little Giant is rigged to twin these activities, which yield a great deal of pleasure in tandem.
I dwell on the music because it accounts for so much of Little Giant's easygoing atmosphere and because this restaurant is all about vibe. I don't mean to overlook or shortchange the food, which can be great when all the gears click in the restaurant's intermittently overtaxed kitchen.
The duck confit ravioli, the salad of baby beets, the sticky toffee pudding with poached quince and that chicken liver mousse, which is seasoned with restrained measures of cinnamon, clove and allspice, are reason aplenty to wander in and reward enough for having done so. Their appeal is basic and its potency sneakily intense, affirming an oxymoron beyond this restaurant's name. Little Giant's dishes speak in a loud whisper.
But the degree to which a diner will enjoy Little Giant ultimately hinges on his or her compatibility with its particular spirit. That spirit explores a territory between homey and hip that's likely to be appreciated most by people who flash on Winslet, not Hepburn, when they hear the name Kate and find merit in debating whether "Desperate Housewives" is a sort of sequel to "Melrose Place."
... Although it's difficult to pigeonhole the restaurant's concise menu, two of its recurring themes are refined comfort food — upscale riffs on downscale standards — and plenty of seasonal produce. In terms of its motifs and target audience, Little Giant comes across as the whimsical love child of Prune and 71 Clinton Fresh Food.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Sausage and onions; ham and cheese; chicken liver mousse; beet salad; duck confit ravioli with seared duck breast; sautéed scallops; quince sticky toffee pudding; milk and cookies.
NYTimes $25 and Under visits a different corner of the Little East Side at Brown (61 Hester Street; 212-254-9825):
... Brown is a place for those disposed to lingering, and its menu offers plenty worth lingering over, even for breakfast. There's a range of baked eggs ($6.50 to $11), and the Tuscan breakfast platter ($9), an ample spread of creamy herbed ricotta, prosciutto, and wildflower honey with a tangle of lightly dressed greens.
The restaurant mixes its own mesclun, using greens from Satur Farms on Long Island and Chino Farms in Southern California, one of the country's top growers of boutique vegetables.
But despite marquee suppliers, the menu makes no mention of the provenance of its produce or sandwich meats (some of which Mr. Alcocer imports from Umbria and sells in the shop next door). Brown just isn't that kind of place. The restaurant is clearly more concerned with balanced, interesting sandwiches and simple, well-executed main courses at dinner than with prestige.
BEST DISHES Tuscan breakfast platter; baked eggs; charcuterie; all sandwiches; pan roasted chicken.
NYPost Steve Cuozzo gives Bottega del Vino one and a half stars (7 East 59th Street; 212-223-3608):
A sure sign the local economy has its mojo back is the instant popularity of Bottega del Vino, apparently Italian for "empty your wallet's entire contents." How else to explain that it's selling $36 common grilled salmon to a full house?
You want to like Bottega del Vino, which airlifts a famed establishment of Verona into luxury-hotel land. Expectations are tweaked by a warm greeting and swelled by a front room achingly like the real Italy.
... Bottega presents itself as a wine-themed place, a kind of Italian Veritas or Cru. It has a grand list and splendid choices by the glass — large vessels custom-cut for owner Severino Barzan.But it's still mainly a place to eat. The food is not flagrantly inauthentic — in fact, anyone who's been to northern Italy will recognize it as the workaday fare of a zillion B-level urban trattorias from Rome to the southern Alps.
Bottega del Vino's prices are so out of line, though, as to nullify any fine distinctions to be made about the cooking — almost as high as Cipriani around the corner, where you at least might spot a B-list celebrity.
... Take a smallish portion of tortellini, served near-cold one night. The shells are first-rate and hand-cut, with scalloped ridges, and filled with tiny, delectable meatballs of ham and ground beef. The damage: $28 for pasta without a single luxury ingredient.
NY Mag reviews Bouillabaisse 126 (126 Union Street, Brooklyn; 781-855-4405):
Despite its name, Bouillabaisse 126 is purely a Brooklyn story, its hero, Neil Ganic, a Yugoslavian-born chef who made his name in the early nineties at La Bouillabaisse, a pioneering Atlantic Avenue bistro. In the dozen intervening years, Ganic reproduced variations of his winning formula in a half-dozen spots throughout the borough before disappearing from the culinary scene.
... Despite the abundance of worthy alternatives--including non-piscatory ones, like a winter-hearty lamb shank with rough-cut red-cabbage relish, and filet mignon au poivre--it's hard to resist the dish the restaurant's named for, no matter how much the recipe veers from tradition.
And it's bound to. Even the French can't agree on what should and shouldn't go into a proper bouillabaisse. As P. G. Wodehouse put it, "In bouillabaisse you are likely to find almost anything, from a nautical gentleman's sea-boots to a small China mug engraved with the legend 'un cadeau (a present) de (from) Deauville (Deauville)' ". While Ganic holds firmly to the belief that edible ingredients make for the tastiest bouillabaisse, his is a version unlikely to mollify a Marseillais. This is mainly because by adding only a few chunks of a single type of fish (cod, snapper, or bass), he avoids the delicate issue of what species should be substituted for rascasse, conger eel, and other bouillabaisse-approved components. But who really cares? By any name, it's still a delicious seafood stew overflowing with mussels, scallops, shrimp, and lobster all luxuriating in saffron-flavored broth.
Ideal Meal: Crab cake, bouillabaisse or poached cod, chocolate-souffle cake.
Marcella Hazan says: "The kind of flavour I am thinking of has no other agenda but to express the truth that has gone into the making of a dish," she says. "Fidelity to that truth leads to the cooking that I strive to practise in my kitchen and that I hope I have communicated to my classes." .
100lb Woman Eats 6lb Burger. It looks like Sonya "The Black Widow" Thomas might have some competiton!
SF Strategies for snagging a French Laundry reservation by phone or online at OpenTable.
NYC Starwich is opening a new location January 31st in the Citicorp building (153 East 53rd Street).
Lulu's Gonna Love Manhattan: Mango-ginger from Matunga market. I'd love to get my hands on some mango-ginger root.
GourmetSleuth - Flat Iron Steak: what it is, and how it got its name.
NYC Opening this week: BLT Fish, Bellavitae, Sandia, Bar Sasa.
NYC Hudson Restaurant Week. Restaurant Week crosses the Hudson River to NJ. Over 20 participating restaurants offering 3-course lunches & dinners from Jan 24 - Feb 4, 2005.
SF Help Vinography celebrate one year of blogging this Saturday at Bacar. Happy birthday!
NYC SliceNY pays a visit to DeMarco's Pizzeria, the Di Fara spin-off. "It goes without saying that a DeMarco's slice will never be the same as a Di Fara slice. Dom's pies have been honed against forty years' hard work—seven days a week, with hardly any vacations or holidays. But the DeMarco's slices this weblog had Tuesday night for dinner and yesterday afternoon for lunch were very good approximations of the master's craft."
NYC Dinner at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. "Since one of us is friends with Dan Barber, the Chef and a co-owner, we were given the royal treatment. We were informed that Dan had asked the kitchen to cook for us – so aside from one expecting mother who asked to be spared shellfish and the wine pairings, we were served without having to make any decisions. It was divine surrender."
Suggestions for expanding your dining horizons in the new year.
Second on the list is: "Have some foie gras, while you still can," which reminds me of a great quote from Dan Barber this weekend at the NYTimes talk, Ingredients: The Quest for The Best:
"I rather eat a force-fed duck than a Tyson's chicken."
A full write-up of the talk coming soon.
Chef's Notes is a weblog written by Madhu Menon, the chef and owner of Shiok Far-eastern cuisine restauarant in Bangalore.
If you're a nerd like me, you might like food economist Parke Wilde's U.S. Food Policy Blog.
The Jenville Show.com: Cooking with Rockstars. Interviews with bands on the topics of eating and cooking, plus artist contributed recipes.
NYC Opening this week: Employees Only, Mama Jean's, and Bistro du Vent.
Starbuckseverywhere.net: Check out the list of Starbucks in SF or NYC, including photos. [Via EverythingNY]
Flickr photo tutorial: Making Puerco Pibil.
I love the illustration accompanying the Masa Four-Star Brouhaha.
NYC Restaurants are doing their part to raise funds for the victims of the Southeast Asian tsunami. Check out the list of upcoming benefit dinners.
Today's review roundup includes: La Masseria, Krystal's Cafe, Ono, Abboccato, Peperoncino.
NYTimes Frank Bruni reviews La Masseria one star, "Italian rustic, just off Broadway" (235 West 48th Street; 212-582-2111):
The menu ranges far and wide over land and sea, carpaccio and capesante, in a naked bid to appeal to all audiences. There are unfamiliar scene-stealers, including a dish of fettucinelike noodles with wedges of eggplant and smoked mozzarella in a light tomato sauce. There are familiar star turns, including that tagliatelle. And there are unfamiliar performances from familiar players, most conspicuously a limoncello-flavored tiramisù that, like most other desserts, was worthy of nothing more than faint applause.
You can pretty much count on generous portions but not, sadly, on careful preparations. With the exception of that pompano and the shrimp, scallops and squid in an absolutely wonderful fritto misto, the seafood I sampled at La Masseria was overcooked. So was grilled chicken, which bore the additional indignity of too much salt.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Stuffed fresh mozzarella; baby octopus with broccoli rabe and fava beans; fritto misto; scialatielli with eggplant and smoked mozzarella; veal chop; rabbit; tartufo ice cream.
NYTimes $25 and Under visits Krystal's Cafe, serving up Filipino comfort food in Woodside, Queens ( 69-02 Roosevelt Avenue, Woodside, Queens; 718-898-1900):
Chicken adobo ($4.95), supremely tender, primarily dark meat chicken, was braised in garlic, bay, vinegar and soy. My friend assured me that it lived up to his memories. It is the sort of elemental preparation that is impossible to tire of; it is what your mom would have waiting for you on the stove when you came home for the holidays if it was in her repertory.
Pancit bihon ($4.95) was a similarly homey dish. Though the menu promised rice noodles with shrimp, pork and vegetables, cabbage and celery seemed to dominate the mix. No matter. It was simple and straightforward, and I could immediately imagine myself as a child in front of the television, downing a plate of it with a glass of milk.
The sizzling sisig ($7.95), minced raw onions and diced pork delivered to the table on a piping hot cast iron platter, is like a relative of corned beef hash from a country where pig is big. At the table, an egg yolk stirred into the meat and onion hash cloaks it with a velvety coating, and a squeeze of lemon brightens the dish.
... The East Village offshoot of Krystal's, on First Avenue near 11th Street, opened in 2002 and has slightly higher prices.
BEST DISHES Chicken adobo; sautéed rice noodles; sizzling sisig; lechon; barbecued chicken.
NYPost Steve Cuozzo gives Ono two stars, "Ono is no Rocco's. You can eat well, and the wait staff couldn't be sweeter"(18 Ninth Avenue; 212-660-6766):
The menu baits the swap-and-share crowd with a zoo of small plates, sushi rolls dubbed "o-no" for no rice or "o-yes," and "very large plates" that really are very large.
The party starts with irresistible, salted rice paper crisps dusted with sweet-and-sour barbecue powder. Specialty rolls have crackle and spark, too. But Kazuhiko Hashimoto's nigiri offerings sport chuckleheaded toppings like a green jalapeno blob on toro.
One night when we were recognized, the kitchen spotted us the house parfait of uni, foie gras and tofu ($9). We recognized it, too: It's an eerily close cousin to a dish at davidburke & donatella, where executive chef Scott Ubert last worked.
Kobe carpaccio pizza ($14) is what a friend called "the worst kind of silly." I was ready to give up after braised pork belly ($17) arrived inedibly blubbery and burnt.
But other choices bring home the bacon. Mostly terrific robata snacks come with five scintillating dips. Salmon "chops" on the bone ($9) are out-of-this-world juicy.
NY Mag reviews Abboccato (136 W. 55th Street; 212-265-4000):
The proprietors of Abboccato are the Livanos family, owners of Molyvos and the fine seafood restaurant Oceana. They are diligent, successful restaurateurs, and if they haven't quite gotten the hang of the new Italian aesthetic yet, they certainly know how to choose a chef.
... The menu at Abboccato may be jumbled and overwrought, but the food has a polished, uptown elegance. Among the pastas, there are two very good ravioli, one filled with beets and Gorgonzola and sprinkled with poppy seeds, the other stuffed with wild greens. The excellent seafood pasta I sampled was folded with sweet razor clams and slivers of chewy, dissolving fish roe called bottarga, and the carbonara is made with strands of bucatini, salty bits of duck prosciutto, and whipped duck-egg yolks that grow richer and more buttery as you get to the bottom of the dish. The elaborate meat dishes for two are mostly worth their high sticker price (they�re all over $30 per head, without side dishes), particularly the Fiorentina porterhouse (served in a proper sauce of anchovies and crushed garlic), the big, truncheon-size veal shank, and the rack of lamb, which is baked, pastry-style, in a sea-salt crust infused with fresh mint.
Ideal Meal: Crudo or quail stuffed with mortadella, pasta with razor clams and bottarga, bucatini carbonara, veal shank, "Dolce Federico."
Village Voice Robert Sietsema reviews Peperoncino, the newest Italian trattoira in Park Slope, joining Al Da La and Convivium Osteria (72 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn; 718-638-4760):
... Memories still linger of paccheri alla Genovese ($13), an oniony and white-wine-laced beef ragu without a trace of tomato sauce, poured over al dente paccheri. Like short lengths of cardboard tube, this pasta is so obscure that it doesn't appear in John Mariani's Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink. Score 10 points for Peperoncino. Delve deeper and you'll discover that the sauce has a fascinating backstory: It was first introduced to Naples by Genoese merchants in the 17th century.
From the oven proceed some of the best Neapolitan-revival pizzas in town, giving Franny's on nearby Flatbush Avenue a run for its money. These pies hark back to 19th-century Neapolitan models, rather than American ones. The crusts are slightly thicker than Franny's, with small charred spots here and there.
NYC Restaurant Week begins January 24th. Three-course lunches for $20.12 and three-course dinners for $35.00.
The year in review: dining scene is finally looking up. Michael Bauer and Patricia Unterman have compiled their Best of 2004 lists. Not too surprisingly, they have a few picks in common: A16, Bocadillos, Frisson, Poggio, and Quince.
Michael Bauer's top 10 restaurants of 2004:
Town Hall, 342 Howard St., San Francisco; (415) 908-3900.
Poggio, 777 Bridgeway, Sausalito; (415) 332-7771.
Quince, 1701 Octavia St., San Francisco; (415) 775-8500.
A16, 2355 Chestnut St., San Francisco; (415) 771-2216.
Va de Vi, 1511 Mt. Diablo Blvd., Walnut Creek; (925) 979-0100.
Pearl, 5634 College Ave., Oakland; (510) 654-5426.
Michael Mina, 335 Powell St., San Francisco; (415) 397-9222.
Frisson, 244 Jackson St., San Francisco; (415) 956-3004.
Bocadillos, 710 Montgomery St., San Francisco; (415) 982-2622.
La Suite, 100 Brannan St. (at the Embarcadero), San Francisco; (415) 593-
5900.
Patricia Unterman's best new restaurants of 2004:
Frisson, 244 Jackson St., San Francisco; (415) 956-3004.
Eccolo, 1820 Fourth St., Berkeley; (510) 644-0444.
Quince, 1701 Octavia St., San Francisco; (415) 775-8500.
A16, 2355 Chestnut St., San Francisco; (415) 771-2216.
Poggio, 777 Bridgeway, Sausalito; (415) 332-7771.
Bocadillos, 710 Montgomery St., San Francisco; (415) 982-2622.
Sonoma Saveurs, 487 First St. West, Sonoma; (707) 996-7007.
Mochica, 937 Harrison St., San Francisco; (415) 278-0408.
Cafe Cacao, 914 Heinz St., Berkeley; (510) 843-6000.
Bodega Bistro, 607 Larkin St., San Francisco; (415) 921-1218.
El Raigon, 510 Union St., San Francisco; (415) 291-0927.
Blue Jay Cafe, 919 Divisadero St., San Francisco; (415) 447-6066.