Today's review roundup includes: Bocadillos, Midori Mushi, Frisson.
SF Chronicle's Michael Bauer gives Bocadillos three stars (710 Montgomery St.; 415-982-2622):
Bocadillos is owned by Gerald Hirigoyen, who became a local celebrity at Fringale, which he bowed out of a few months ago so he could concentrate on his native Basque cuisine at Piperade. In July he and his wife, Cameron Hirigoyen, opened Bocadillos, on Montgomery and Washington streets next door to the Bubble Lounge.
Together they have created the most captivating and authentic-feeling Spanish tapas-style restaurant in the city. Not that it's all about Spain; Hirigoyen throws in a few Basque and California twists as well. But the point is that he and chef de cuisine Robert Petzold understand tapas.
During the day, the menu is designed for workers on tight schedules; at night, it loosens up to offer more than 30 savory bites divided into 11 categories, including A la Plancha (grilled), Roasted, Fried and my favorite, Innard Circle. . .
Just about everything at Bocadillos explodes on the tongue, making for a very happy mouth. You can pick anything and it will be absolutely delicious: prawns sauteed with garlic flakes and a fresh lemon confit ($12), ground chicken skewers ($7) fried crisp and served with a yogurt mint sauce, or boquerones ($3), three skewers of anchovies, olives, artichokes and small button mushrooms. It's a traditional dish with a flavor that coaxes you to take another sip of wine, preferably one of the crisp Spanish selections.
SF Chronicle gives Midori Mushi two stars (465 Grove St.; 415-503-1377):
Midori Mushi isn't for everyone. The room is tiny, the rules are jarring and the servers wear T-shirts with slogans that aren't fit to print in a family newspaper. What it all comes down to, though, is the fish. And Dumuk's an expert.
His father owned a fish market in Vallejo, so Dumuk grew up around seafood. After a stint as a paramedic, he made sushi at Blowfish and Moki's in San Francisco. Now, in his own restaurant, he's created a playful menu with some no-nonsense dishes.
. . . The selections at Midori Mushi are seasonal. Dumuk doesn't serve farmed Atlantic salmon, for example. Diners get wild king salmon nigiri ($7), which is now in season.
And what a difference it makes. The richness of the buttery fish is cut with a tiny mound of grated lemon zest on top of the substantial piece of nigiri. Bincyo toro nigiri ($7) shows off the lush albacore tuna belly. Fort Bragg uni ($8), the eggs of a cold-water sea urchin, is on the menu, but wasn't available on any of our three visits. "When I'm not lazy, I seek it out, " says Dumuk. "Otherwise, it's hard to find."
In the Signature Maki section, rolls come with sass. The menu description for Mandatory Metallica ($7), eel and avocado rolled in crumbled barbecued potato chips, promises that even traditional sushi eaters can't deny this roll. And it's true. It's a totally weird concept for a roll, but try it and you'll find that the mesquite flavor of the crumbled chips complements the eel's natural sweetness and provides crunch.
SF Examiner's Patricia Unterman reviews Frisson (44 Jackson; 415-956-3004):
. . . The kitchen sent out treats. A haunting cilantro-and-ginger-scented carrot soup textured with threads of pickled green mango hid beneath an aromatic froth. Delicate toasts buttered with bone marrow and topped with caviar proved that these ingredients were made for each other. I adored Patterson's Japanese cuttlefish, cut into strands and sauteed in green olive oil ($13) with chives, salt and pepper. Buttery -- though made without butter -- tender and rich in flavor, this four-ingredient dish captured Patterson's genius. A bright green olive emulsion melted into a cauliflower puree on skate wing ($21), a stunning flavor pastiche heightened by pickled cauliflorettes and parsley leaves. A miraculously full-flavored mountain gruyere ($7) imported by local cheesemaker Soyoung Scanlon made me rethink my favorite cheese.
Invention did not stop with dessert. A creamy banana souffle was scented with curry, topped with a layer of bitter cocoa powder and sweetened with a little bowl of toasted fresh coconut and a scoop of light chocolate gelato on the side ($10). It worked. When I was done with the meal, I longed to come back for more.
Patterson has done it. Practically everything that touched my lips -- cocktails, wines, small plates, large plates, cheeses, desserts, sweets -- induced a shiver of excitement, an emotional thrill. Frisson makes good on its name. Patterson has fulfilled his destiny as a revelatory chef.