For July 4th, wine in a box could be a winner. "The standout by far was Three Thieves 2003 Bandit Bianco trebbiano Rubicone ($6/1 litre), packaged from grapes in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region. Trebbiano is a workhorse of a grape, perhaps Europe’s most-planted variety and often added to punch up other wines. Whatever the Thieves did here, it works. Theirs is refreshing and tangy, with a smooth core of citrus flavors and a hint of almond. Drink it, cook with it, serve it to friends; a wine this pleasant, and this versatile, is nearly impossible to find at the price."